Champagne Discovery

Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2024 is from Leclerc Briant, located in the capital of Champagne; Épernay.

 

Spearheaded by Chef de Cave, the one and only Hervé Jestin since 2012, Champagne Leclerc Briant today focuses on organic and biodynamic viticulture, working in harmony with nature to produce some truly exciting wines. The estate was founded by Lucien Leclerc in 1872 in the village of Cumières. In the mid-20th century, in the hands of Lucien’s great-grandson, Bertrand Leclerc, and his wife, Jacqueline Briant, the company moved to Épernay where it can be found today. Rebranding as Leclerc Briant, they began practising biodynamic viticulture, something rarely seen in 1950s Champagne; becoming one of the first in the region to do so and eventually earning certification in the 1980s. Their son Pascal took control of the family domaine in 1990.

 

Following Pascal’s untimely death, the estate’s vineyard holdings were split up and sold with the company finding new owners: Denise Dupré and Mark Nunelly. Since then and with the masterful help of Hervé Jestin, work to rebuild the estate has continued; reintroducing the forebearers ethos of Biodynamic viticulture and bringing it back to the fore. The winery has also undergone significant renovation to ensure biodynamic and natural principles can be followed. The company did manage to hold onto the jewel in their crown; the single plot “La Croisette” from which it now produces a wine vinified in a gold lined barrel.

 

The estate now totals 14 hectares, with vines located in their ancestral home of Cumières along with Châtillon-sur-Marne, Hautvillers, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Bisseuil, Rilly-la-Montagne, Villers-Allerand, Trépail and not forgetting “La Croisette” in Épernay of course.

 

Cuvée Divine is a multi-vintage (6 vintages) wine whereby the base is from the 2009 harvest and a perpetual reserve from all preceding years to 2004. Both vinification and soléra takes place in stainless steel tanks. The blend consists of 50% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay; all from the Vallée de la Marne villages of Cumières (South-West exposition) and Hautvillers (South exposition). The soil here is calcareous marl, scree on the lower slopes with chalk subsoil. The wine spent 12 years on the lees prior to disgorgement in February 2022 where 2.2gl dosage was added prior to being sealed with a natural cork; alcohol is at 12% abv. The wine is then allowed a further two years post-disgorgement cellaring prior to sale. 

 

Tasted 20:00 Thursday 28th November 2024 (sowing/flower day in the lunar calendar) 

 

Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Absolus

 

Appearance: Clear, medium, gold. 

 

Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, chamomile, geranium, lemon blossom, apple blossom, rose, red apple, pear, quince, chiku, pink grapefruit, lemon juice, lemon rind, preserved lemon, blood orange, orange rind, apricot, nectarine, pineapple, lychee, mango, honeydew melon, raspberry, wet raspberry leaf, bramble, braised fennel and dill. There are secondary notes of biscuit Palmier, toasted brioche, orange buttercream, crema Catalana and chausson-aux-pommes. Tertiary aromas include almond, marzipan, nut brittle, chocolate, coffee, carob, toffee apple, marmalade, dried apple, cinnamon, ginger, hay and honey. 

 

Price circa €82.00 (direct at boutique)

 

We have long been fans of perpetual blends as you really do get the best of both Worlds and Cuvée Divine is an excellent example. Bursting with vibrant primary notes and acidity, yet tempered by the aging process which offers delightful tertiary aromas. Whilst drinking wonderfully now, it will be in superb form for many years to come.