Champagne Discovery

Champagne of the Month
BENOÎT LAHAYE
Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre 2012

Our Champagne of the Month for October 2022 is the cuvée Le Jardin de le Grosse Pierre from Benoît Lahaye who is based in the village of Bouzy on the Montagne de Reims.

Benoît controls 4½ hectares of vineyards, situated in the villages of Bouzy, Ambonnay and Tauxières. The plots are planted with predominantly Pinot Noir where the average age of the vines is 35-40 years. He also has a tiny plot of Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs in the Premier Cru village of Vertus. Since 1995, the decision was taken to allow grass to grow throughout the vineyards and in 2003 the conversion to organic agriculture began. From the 2007 harvest, Champagne Benoît Lahaye has been certified organic by ECOCERT. Since 2008, the viticulture has been carried out biodynamically and he is a member of the Association des Champagnes Biologiques.

In the winery, fermentation is carried out in oak with minimal sulphur and the wines are either without dosage or extra-brut. Annual production is approximately 35,000 bottles.

Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre is a vintage wine, this being from the 2012 harvest. The wine is borne from a single plot in Bouzy from which the cuvée takes its name. Here the soil is brown calcareous and the old Pinot Noir vines that contribute the majority of the blend were planted in 1923. In 1953, Chardonnay, Meunier, Arbane, Fromentau (Pinot Gris), Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc were added to the plot. All seven varieties were pressed together and fermentation took place in barriques. The wine spent three years sur lattes and was disgorged without dosage in March 2017 before being sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv

Tasted: 16:30 hours, Sunday 25th September 2022 (sowing day in the biodynamic calendar)

Glassware: Jamesse Absolus

Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.

Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of honeysuckle, chamomile, lemon blossom, violet, lemon rind, lemon juice, pink grapefruit, orange, pear, Spartan apple, Bramley apple peel, pineapple, roasted pineapple, apricot, lychee, passion fruit, honeydew melon, raspberry, damson, strawberry conserve, prunes, dates, liquorice, mint and lavender. Secondary aromas of vanilla, cloves, nutmeg, coconut, butterscotch, toast, brioche, chausson-aux-pommes, cedar and candied carob. Tertiary notes include honey, hay, marmalade, dried apricot, dried apple, nutty, hazelnut, marzipan, caramel, toffee apple, cinnamon and vanilla fudge.

Utterly beautiful, this wine is decadent and yet retains delightful fresh acidity. It is truly in its pomp right now but in saying that; clearly has potential for further ageing.

Price circa – no longer available