Champagne Discovery

Our “Champagne of the Month” for November 2023 is the the latest iteration of Tradition by Lelarge-Pugeot. This lovely family have a long winemaking history, dating back to 1799 and it was great to catch up with them once again at harvest time this year.

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A brief introduction to this excellent domaine:

Dominique joined his family in 1985 and instantly began to take a more sustainable route; reducing the use of chemicals in the vineyards at a time when this was rare. By the turn of the Millennium, chemical insecticides were stopped in favour of natural predators, enherbement was encouraged; whilst the use of fungicides and herbicides were drastically reduced. In 2014 the estate began Biodynamic conversion and gained organic certification in 2015. In 2016 beehives were added to the estate to further encourage biodiversity. A beautiful new cellar extension was completed in 2019 giving the family increased capacity of fûts, foudres and amphorae. In 2020, yet more biodiversity was introduced to the vineyards with a largescale project of fruit tree planting including peach, apple, cherry, plum and almond from which 2023 provided a bountiful harvest!

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Meet the new boss!

Tradition is essentially the entry level wine of Lelarge-Pugeot, a staple that remains in the domaine’s portfolio but using that term somehow feels a disservice to what is simply an excellent champagne; one we would happily fill our cellar with. Tradition was always good but this latest version has somehow been turbocharged taking it to another level. The base wine is from the 2019 harvest and it is ably supported by reserve wines from 2018 and 2017. It consists of 50% Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Vinification was in a combination of cuve inox, foudres and fûts de chêne, spontaneous fermentation with home-made, indigenous yeasts and minimal addition of sulphur. Bottling of the 30,000 bottles took place in July 2020 and disgorgement in September 2022. This beautifully balanced wine was disgorged without dosage and sealed with a natural cork, alcohol is at 12.5% abv.

 

Tasted: 17:05 hours Wednesday 20th September (flower/root day in the biodynamic calendar)

Glassware: unknown

Appearance: Clear, medium, lemon.

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Characteristics: Pronounced primary aromas of lemon blossom, geranium, honeysuckle, pink grapefruit, pomelo, lemon rind, orange rind, orange juice, Cox apple, Conference pear, quince, chiku, apricot, mango, cantaloupe melon, roasted pineapple, fig, prune, Mirabelle plum, blueberry and lavender. There are secondary notes of biscuits palmier, pastry, toast, fig tart, cloves, vanilla, butterscotch plum tarte tartin and rye bread. Tertiary aromas include almond, marzipan, hazelnut, cobnut, toffee apple, dried apricot, marmalade, ginger, hay and honey. 

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Price circa €45.00

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A truly fantastic wine, Tradition is now hitting the very highest of notes. Intense, bursting with fruit, yet balanced with a delicious acidity. It still amazes us that there is no dosage, such is the wine’s generosity. We normally prefer to spread our reviews between the many producers we love. However, Tradition was so good, that we simply had to share it and the fantastic work of Lelarge-Pugeot once again!

 

Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot is certified biodynamic and a member of the Association des Champagnes Biologiques.