Champagne Discovery

Our “Champagne of the Month” for September was produced by Vincent Charlot on behalf of Charlot-Tanneux and his predecessors. 

 

A very special bottle in more ways the one. A rare vintage 1974, containing 0.8l as was often the case back then. 1974 began with a warm winter and early budding but severe frosts damaged large amounts of the buds and the reduced flowering was slow. The summer was sunny and dry but cooler than average and albeit reduced, the harvest was looking to have considerable potential until consistent heavy rains fell for the month up to picking. This precipitated rot and ensured the 1974 harvest was to prove, a very difficult one.

 

Let’s not forget that in the mid-Seventies, small producer champagnes were not on the World stage like they are today. Even in recent difficult years, fantastic wines have been produced and we can’t help but think we may have missed out on some truly wonderful wines from challenging historic vintages. 1974 is not regarded as a good vintage in Champagne or the rest of France in general but Cuvée Nicolas most certainly defies its origin.

 

Cuvée Nicolas consists of 100% Meunier from Pierry on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay with its clay-limestone soils, vinification was in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts. We suspect chaptalisation would have taken place but there was no fining nor filtering and malolactic fermentation was prevented. The wine was disgorged in March 2021 without dosage and sealed with a natural cork, alcohol is at 12% abv. Unfortunately, no further details are known. 

 

Tasted 19:00 Wednesday 7th August 2024 (sowing/root day in the lunar calendar)

 

Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus 

 

Appearance: Clear, deep, gold.

 

Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, geranium, lemon blossom, orange rind, green apple, baked apple, grapefruit, quince, roasted pineapple, cantaloupe melon, lychee, persimmon, kumquat blueberry and eucalyptus. There are secondary notes of fresh bread dough, toast, short crust pastry, Chausson-aux-pommes, vanilla, butterscotch, cedar, charred wood, smoky, coffee and resinous. Tertiary aromas include marzipan, toffee apple, caramel, candied carob, marmalade, dried apple, candy floss, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cobnut, mushroom, Stilton, hay and honey. 

 

Price circa € -not available- 

 

It is difficult to know where to start in writing a suitable epilogue. This is the third old Meunier we have tasted and the second with a recent disgorgement and, without dosage. All have been simply fantastic and eschews the age-old depreciation of Meunier and the fact it is a variety best suited for drinking young, without the ability to age. Cuvée Nicolas 1974 was incredibly fresh and vibrant belittling the reduced expectations of a poor harvest. Delicious intensity, this wine was still full of vivacity and interest. Of course, I maybe a touch biased being the same vintage but this was an incredible experience. 

 

Old Meunier from a quality family domaine is a thing of beauty!