Looking back at 2025

Well, it is that time of the year again where we like to look back at some of our standout wines that we enjoyed over the past 12 months. Before we do, there are a couple of important points from 2025 we need to address first.

The harvest. It was a good one. Actually, it was a superb one, one that has had many a vigneron excitedly suggesting this is to be the harvest of a generation, perhaps even one of the best in history. It will be some years before we start seeing the best bubbles but do make sure to secure some extra bottles, particularly if you or your loved ones have a significant anniversary in 2025!

A warm welcome to the eigth variety to join the appellation. Whilst not new, another historic varietal rejoins the fold of permitted grapes to be used in champagne production. Chardonnay Rose is a pink skinned variety that is a genetic mutation of the white Chardonnay grape, last used around the turn of the 1900s. We don't know to what extent it is planted across Champagne but will be keeping a keen eye out for any wines produced with it.

Onto the wines that bewitched our taste buds and ensnared our senses (to coin a certain Master of Potion's words):

Agnès Corbon - Avize Grand Cru 2012. Agnès makes delicious ageworthy wines that are generous and full of life (much like the good lady herself). 2012 is arguably one of the best ever vintages in Champagne and whilst that isn't always a necessity for World class small domaines, this is an absolute gem of a wine.

Bonnet-Ponson - Petit Mélange 2018/19. A blend of all 7 of the then permitted varieties with Petit Meslier taking centre stage. Vinified in a stoneware egg and without the addition of sulphur or dosage. Mineral and fruit driven, it was an absolute delight.

Augustin - Cuvée Gaïa 2018. A traditionally macerated rose from old vines Pinot Noir. Aging took place buried in the earth and enjoyed at room temperature. A rare and stunning wine.

Augustin - Cœur Saphyr 2021. 100% Meunier vinified in small oak barrels before aging in a modern dolium - similar to the Kveri used in Georgian winemaking. No dosage and no sulphur, it is another masterpiece from the innovative Avenay-Val-d'Or domaine.

Jean-Marc Sélèque - Partition 2009 2ème Lecture 7 Parcelles. Just 240 bottles of this late disgorged zero dosage version of the original 2009 Partition. The extra lees ageing just turbo charges an already brilliant wine.

Etienne Calsac - L'Échappée Belle (2012 base). Bought on our second or third visit to Etienne in 2016, this wine has been cellared ever since. 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir with 2gl dosage, it is maturing beautifully and still on an upward curve. Absolutely brilliant and only just a little disappointing as this was our last bottle!

Jérôme Prévost - Les Beguines '&'. Jérôme's 'entry level' wine with some bought-in grapes from friends with whom he works in their vineyards. 100% Meunier vinified in a mix of old and new oak barrels. No fining, filtering or dosage. Super rich and super enjoyable.

Geoffroy - Cumières Rouge. A coteaux rouge, 100% Pinot Noir from Cumières and a blend of five vintages: 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2018. Significantly richer than many coteaux rouge on offer and beautifully layered. Vinified in demi-muids (143 litre barrels).

Pascal Doquet - Diapason. Utterly delicious Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Chardonnay from this gem of a domaine. 33% is from the 2017 harvest with the remainder being a perpetual reserve 2012-2016. Lip-smacking minerality and acidity with gorgeously layered fruit; 3gl dosage.

Vincent Charlot - Clos des Futies 2013. A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from clay-limestone soil in the Mardeuil plot. Vinification in oak barrels and disgorged in October 2023 with 4.5gl. It is heady and powerful with layers of wonderful fruit.

Collard-Picard - Essentiel 2012. 50% Chardonnay with 25% each of Meunier and Pinot Noir. Aged on the lees for a whopping 115 months in foudres. Disgorged without dosage in November 2022. Pure hedonism and another great advert for low or zero dosed champagnes.

Other beauties we have enjoyed in 2025:

Jacques Lassaigne - Rosé

Pascal Doquet - 'Champ d'Alouettes' Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 2005

Augustin - O2 Rosée

Krug - Grande Cuvée 168ème Edition

Jestin - Vintage 2009 extra brut

Laherte Frères - Rosé de Meunier extra brut

Charles Heidsieck - Millésime 2000

Francis Boulard - Millésime 2006

Ruinart - Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002

Drappier - Quattuor IV

A special mention:

We adore the wines of Lelarge-Pugeot and whilst we hadn't tasted any new cuvées from them in 2025, we did revisit two that simply need mentioning.

Tradition - the entry level wine for this brilliant domaine is a class act. 2021 base wine with two years aging, no dosage and very little sulphur; it is bursting with energy and glorious fruit from the blend of 50% Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay.

Les Charmes de Vrigny - 50% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay with 6 years on the lees. 2008 base with a perpetual reserve it is so generous and so delicious.

Until the next time.....bonne année à tous!